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6月20日 回国了,杂七杂八。-发现国内WIKIPEDIA所有语言的网站全部给禁掉了,郁闷。现在想想,难怪原来再国内从来没听说过这东西呢。
-看着世界杯的杯子,让我想起了《世界之战》海报上外星人的纤细的手指托着个地球的感觉。
-今天突然联系好了实习,长江证券,明天就去上班,实在突然。还没啥概念要干什么呢。
-回了国,有颇多不适应,虽然前几年回来多少也有一些,但这次一别9月,回来感到的差异还是头一回强烈。昨天收到了一个德国朋友到上海实习第一周在上海的种种经历,比较客观的评价,没有什么偏见,虽然自己有很多同感,但从外国友人的口中得知却又是另一种滋味。以下贴一部分吧。
City: You can't really say it's beautiful, or even pretty. It's a bit like a giant construction site. Half the city is grand, high-rises, steel, glass, wide streets, modern buildings. The other looks like I would have imagined a city if you said China to me before I went. Street-vendors, people working in back-yards, a chain of people passing water-melons from a truck to a shop, a buzzing back-street market, dvd-sellers (yes the old copyright thing), eating, working, sleeping, cutting hair, all done on the street. The new half, even though amazing and futuristic is quite faceless, last week, I drove through the centre of town at night, on one of the elevated motorways that go all through the traffic. It felt like a computer game, ten metres above street-level, gliding through the high-rises and not seeing anything below in the darkness. A Carrefour, a copy of Dulwich College , a shopping centre called Times Square, it could be anywhere. In a way it's sad, because walking through the other parts, they feel like they're only there because there wasn't time to demolish them and build a big apartment or office block on top. To be fair, this is Pudong, so the new city on the other side of the river, Puxi, the 'old' side of the river has some nice quarters (for example the former French concession which is beautiful), but even there big and new seems to be the only guideline for city planning.
Communication: If I didn't think going to China without speaking Chinese was gonna be a major challenge, I certainly do now. It is difficult and frustrating and probably the part that makes me feel most like a stranger. Most Chinese don't speak any English, and those that say they do (for example because they work on the front-desk of an American hotel chain that promises 'english-speaking service') don't either. This is funny sometimes. Yesterday, someone from the hotel called me to get the number of my colleague at work to ask her if everything was all right with me. It took ten minutes to give him 21. the next number was 5. Which he obviously didn't know, and I have to admit, it sounds silly, but there are just so many ways you can say five. Even my well-meaning 'one, two, three, four, …,' didn't get me anywhere, because he thought the number was 'one, two, three, four', weirdly enough not 'one, two, three, four, five,' though. Well, apart from my slight exasperation at the fact that it might have been possible for him to guess what number I meant by principle elimination – if it's not 9, and not 8,…,- this was rather amusing. At other times it's not, especially when combined with a rather dodgy concept of customer service, like when the hotel's machine didn't accept a credit card, the clerk then waved me away to follow a maid, who proceeded to take me to the next ATM, where I didn't want to get money because they charge so much. (If I'd known I wouldn't have come in the first place). It got frustrating when on my declination to get money the maid got annoyed and looked at me like a was a nasty baby that didn't want to drink it's milk, and tried to find anyone who spoke English to explain my foolishness to me. Taxi drivers the same, only with the added difficulty that they don't understand the address given by me in Chinese. But that's rather easy, have the address written down in Chinese or be ready to give instructions. Oh, and 'OK' and doesn't mean ok. The guidebooks say it's about losing face when saying no, so it's not done. OK means, well, whatever really, this morning in the cab when I gave the Chinese street name I wanted to go to, OK meant, you'll have to point me to where we're going because I have no clue. Well, it was easy to figure out that time because he proceeded to drive in exactly the opposite direction I wanted to go in…
Government: There is lot's wrong with the way democracy is run in Germany (and the UK for that matter), and with the way the media twists public opinion, etc. It's still a lot better than here. Not that anything has (or will) happened to me, but talk about human rights in China has become a lot less abstract for me in the last week. A few things brought that up. Firstly, an hour after I arrived in the hotel, sleeping in bed, I was woken up by the receptionist knocking on the door. He wasn't along but accompanied by two policemen who gave me thorough looks and inspected my passport for a good five minutes (even though they had already taken a copy at reception and probably already faxed it to the PSB (public security bureau). They weren't unfriendly, but they were decidedly not friendly, and I didn't quite get same they-bark-but-don't-bite-feeling that I normally have with policemen in Germany or the UK . The second thing was wikipedia, or more, it's absence. After the tenth time of googling something and clicking on the link to wikipedia (and getting a, server can't be found message), I read up on it and realized that it's blocked. Completely. And it's not like Wikipedia is an especially radical body of political indoctrination. And then there are the stories about human rights activists being beaten up so badly that they are paralysed from the neck down, or stabbed 26 times, just because they dare say something about the corruption. Yes, I know this has been in the press for years. But it just seemed a lot less important somehow. And after thinking thoughts like that, the news in the English language channel on television seem surreal, propaganda. Scary to think that for a billion people that's the only information they can get.
Expats: I played rugby last weekend, on the sports ground of Dulwich college, which they share with the Shanghai football club. It was the best day since I was here, rugby, a pool, cheap beer and rugby on a big screen. There also weren't a lot of Chinese, apart from a Chinese Touch team that used the lawn but then left as a group when they were down practising. That's the impression I've got so far, there are lots of foreigners, but they don't mix. The young ones more, but the ones with kids live in their own suburb, close to the German- British or whatever school, and on Saturdays they go to do sports with other non-Chinese. Or to have a drink at O'Malley's Irish pub which is priced so ridiculously that most Chinese are kept out because they probably just can't afford the pub. Luckily I only bought an Orange juice (4€), not a beer (I don't want to think about it). I watched a World Cup match there in front of a group of German kids, maybe 15, absolutely drunk, annoying, racist towards the Chinese in front of them, but unable to say more in Chinese than 'get out of the way'.
Inequality: Well, lots of it. People making a living collecting scrap plastic and the rich kids in front of clubs taking 20€ charge on a Tuesday night. On television, only the extra-long version of the Audi A6 and A8 is advertised, the Cayenne stops in front of the delicatessen shop, where a scoop of Haegen-Dasz costs around as much as 8 meals in a normal street restaurant. And it's not inequality between those that have good jobs and those unemployed. The people I've been interviewing for management positions at work (already having made a career) earn as much as I do, not that that's bad, but it certainly doesn't get you the big fridges, or the big cars, or the nice luxury apartments.
People: I have my problems communicating with people (see communication), but that's my fault. Most people are amazingly friendly, smile, want to help, carry my suitcases. When the hotel manager in my last hotel asked how I'd liked the hotel, and I said something positive, his eyes lit up with the most genuine and warm smile and I was totally struck. Because of the language barrier I find it hard to really get to know people, though, and I don't think language is the only barrier there is. Smiles can be distant, and I can feel that while I'm a guest, I can't be much more than that. Oh yes, and the staring takes a while to get used to. When I came down to the hotel reception in my jogging shorts, people stared at me, even if I stared back, laughed and whispered, and I was deadly embarrassed. I'm getting used to it now and try not to acknowledge it, but it's still weird and I can't say I like it.
Pollution: The smog is unbelievable. It's impossible to see for more than a few blocks before buildings disappear in the dust. Even if it's sunny, the sun never gets out fully (see picture). After going for a run, I cough and I can smell the dirt I have breathed in. Stuff (if it's not recyclable) is just thrown away wherever and hygiene is a foreign concept.
Traffic: Interesting, very interesting. Because I had to switch hotels I got ample opportunity to look at the art of driving in Shanghai for an hour every day last week, and I'm happy to have survived. At first I thought everything is just chaos, bikes driving on both sides of the roads in both directions, crossing a red light, no problem, turning right at full speed into a tight flow of traffic, no problem. Nearly running over the pedestrians, even if they have a green light, totally normal. But there are rules to the chaos, and if I hadn't seen my first two serious accidents yesterday, I would probably find it quite amusing. The most important rules in Chinese traffic is: 'I don't see you, I don't hear you.' This sounds weird, because I would have assumed if no-one sticks to any of the official traffic rules it would make sense to pay attention. But no. If you cross a street as a pedestrian, and a taxi driver comes running up to you, don't look at him. If you do, be sure he accelerates and runs you over if you don't jump out of the way. But if you don't pay any attention to what's going on around you, people will stop. The best example of this was on my first day at work. After beeping his horn and making groups of pedestrians and bikers hurry out of the way, a woman crosses a 8 lane road on the wrong side of the street through 4 lanes of turning traffic. But she ignored everyone. No-one beeped his horn, no-one got annoyed; my taxi driver looked at her with all the patience in the world. That is how it's done. Oh yes, and indicators aren't there to indicate. After doing the most erratic three-lane back and forth changes, nearly getting stuck under a bus, nearly running into the back of the car; indicators are used to show that the manoeuvre is finished. In the way of: 'Yes, of course I do have a working indicator, I just choose not to use it.' Two more rules: 1) Stay out of the way of busses, they do not stop. 2) Taxi drivers can smell fear, and fear only makes their driving worse.
如果有什么比以上还要可悲的是,上海,已经是全国最好的城市之一了。 コメント (16 件)
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